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	<title>Comments on: Diminishing Insulation Returns</title>
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	<link>http://houseblog.ottopohl.com/2010/03/10/diminishing-insulation-returns/</link>
	<description>A Constructive Adventure</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 25 Jun 2011 08:30:59 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Tim Miller</title>
		<link>http://houseblog.ottopohl.com/2010/03/10/diminishing-insulation-returns/comment-page-1/#comment-1306</link>
		<dc:creator>Tim Miller</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Feb 2011 03:25:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://houseblog.ottopohl.com/?p=347#comment-1306</guid>
		<description>Hi Otto. Thanks,  Sips  likely OSB... I almost forget about Sips ,  so much foam is being spray applied and the pink insulation board by Owens 4 by8&#039; sheets can be used instead of sub siding wall underlayment,.

I think all windows are the largest net heat gain &amp; loss  in any insulated wall. But am likely to install thermal shades to reduce  heat loss in cold months. to supplement energy efficient windows.  Over hanging pergolas and trees will be the summer buffer. 
  
Another benefit of the cellulose is its reduction of air infiltration an fire retardant and insect resistance .   Plus i&#039;m creating rain screen exterior walls to for their many benefits. Again thanks for your information. Tim</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Otto. Thanks,  Sips  likely OSB&#8230; I almost forget about Sips ,  so much foam is being spray applied and the pink insulation board by Owens 4 by8&#8242; sheets can be used instead of sub siding wall underlayment,.</p>
<p>I think all windows are the largest net heat gain &amp; loss  in any insulated wall. But am likely to install thermal shades to reduce  heat loss in cold months. to supplement energy efficient windows.  Over hanging pergolas and trees will be the summer buffer. </p>
<p>Another benefit of the cellulose is its reduction of air infiltration an fire retardant and insect resistance .   Plus i&#8217;m creating rain screen exterior walls to for their many benefits. Again thanks for your information. Tim</p>
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		<title>By: Otto</title>
		<link>http://houseblog.ottopohl.com/2010/03/10/diminishing-insulation-returns/comment-page-1/#comment-1304</link>
		<dc:creator>Otto</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Feb 2011 19:21:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://houseblog.ottopohl.com/?p=347#comment-1304</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m not sure what you mean by &quot;sub siding.&quot; My walls are 12&quot; SIPs, so on top of those is just house wrap and then the siding. If you are wondering whether you should put a solid skin of insulation around the outside of the house, I strongly encourage that.

I can&#039;t comment on your home&#039;s character as I&#039;ve never seen it, but I would say that thicker walls probably make a bigger difference than you think. Uninsulated walls not only have really low R values but probably huge air infiltration. Why do you say it is surprising how little difference that makes? Have you tested it? Of course, doing both is the best, but I&#039;m just looking for best bang for the buck here.

If your windows are facing south, even poorly insulated windows can have a net heat gain due to the solar gain during the day.

Cellulose certainly is much more sustainable. And if you have enough volume in the walls you can do a fantastic job with it. The one thing I would recommend is reducing infiltration. Easily 30-50% of your entire heating bill is probably due to draft conditions.

Best of luck with this project! It sounds like you&#039;re asking all the right questions.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m not sure what you mean by &#8220;sub siding.&#8221; My walls are 12&#8243; SIPs, so on top of those is just house wrap and then the siding. If you are wondering whether you should put a solid skin of insulation around the outside of the house, I strongly encourage that.</p>
<p>I can&#8217;t comment on your home&#8217;s character as I&#8217;ve never seen it, but I would say that thicker walls probably make a bigger difference than you think. Uninsulated walls not only have really low R values but probably huge air infiltration. Why do you say it is surprising how little difference that makes? Have you tested it? Of course, doing both is the best, but I&#8217;m just looking for best bang for the buck here.</p>
<p>If your windows are facing south, even poorly insulated windows can have a net heat gain due to the solar gain during the day.</p>
<p>Cellulose certainly is much more sustainable. And if you have enough volume in the walls you can do a fantastic job with it. The one thing I would recommend is reducing infiltration. Easily 30-50% of your entire heating bill is probably due to draft conditions.</p>
<p>Best of luck with this project! It sounds like you&#8217;re asking all the right questions.</p>
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		<title>By: Tim Miller</title>
		<link>http://houseblog.ottopohl.com/2010/03/10/diminishing-insulation-returns/comment-page-1/#comment-1303</link>
		<dc:creator>Tim Miller</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Feb 2011 16:54:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://houseblog.ottopohl.com/?p=347#comment-1303</guid>
		<description>Howdy Otto, thanks for the advice. But you didn&#039;t answer my question about the sub siding. I was wondering if your home has OSB or plywood or the more futuristic pink Ownings insulation board for sub siding...
My old home has 7&#039; tall 3&#039; wide single pain 108 year old windows and they will be replaced by much smaller&amp;  efficient windows.  The homes Character is a minor issue , my opinion worshiping it = forking out huge energy costs  to heat and cool it. It is surprising how little difference thicker walls make. The house has some that are 1&#039; wide already but these are hollow. What a heat bill it use to have. The thick walls  over-sized window sills allows for interesting decor options too...  

The sustainability of cellulose verses foam appeals to me as does the huge difference in cost.  Settling of the insulation is either due to poor workmanship and myth.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Howdy Otto, thanks for the advice. But you didn&#8217;t answer my question about the sub siding. I was wondering if your home has OSB or plywood or the more futuristic pink Ownings insulation board for sub siding&#8230;<br />
My old home has 7&#8242; tall 3&#8242; wide single pain 108 year old windows and they will be replaced by much smaller&amp;  efficient windows.  The homes Character is a minor issue , my opinion worshiping it = forking out huge energy costs  to heat and cool it. It is surprising how little difference thicker walls make. The house has some that are 1&#8242; wide already but these are hollow. What a heat bill it use to have. The thick walls  over-sized window sills allows for interesting decor options too&#8230;  </p>
<p>The sustainability of cellulose verses foam appeals to me as does the huge difference in cost.  Settling of the insulation is either due to poor workmanship and myth.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Otto</title>
		<link>http://houseblog.ottopohl.com/2010/03/10/diminishing-insulation-returns/comment-page-1/#comment-1288</link>
		<dc:creator>Otto</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Feb 2011 01:40:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://houseblog.ottopohl.com/?p=347#comment-1288</guid>
		<description>Staggered-stud walls are great, but if you&#039;re restoring an old home suddenly thickening the walls might be strange. You should always keep in mind the character of your house when you start renovating. How thick are current walls? You might find that the foam gives you the same R value as a thicker cellulose wall. The other key benefit of foam is that it really cuts down on air infiltration, which is a huge source of heat loss, especially in older homes. Cellulose will also settle over time, creating a gap at the top of the wall.

Regarding windows, you need to balance cost, R-value, and your home&#039;s character. If your windows have real character (old wavy glass, beautiful double-hung frame detailing etc), you might find that a combination of reducing air infiltration in walls &amp; ceilings, combined perhaps with custom-made storm windows, might give you the improvements you need without compromising the character of the house.

If the windows truly need to be replaced, I still urge you to consider the character of the house. Despite a slight performance weakness, double-hung windows might still be good. While fiberglass is probably the best frame option, wood or aluminum-clad wood might fit the house better.

Beyond all that, the better the R-value of the window the better. Triple-glaze is great, but it also makes for a heavier window. The third pane of glass adds virtually no insulating value by itself; the benefit comes from creating an additional air pocket. So you might also want to consider a double-paned window that has a thin polyester film suspended in the middle. Much lighter and essentially the same R-value. Also consider argon or krypton gas filling, as well as low-e coating.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Staggered-stud walls are great, but if you&#8217;re restoring an old home suddenly thickening the walls might be strange. You should always keep in mind the character of your house when you start renovating. How thick are current walls? You might find that the foam gives you the same R value as a thicker cellulose wall. The other key benefit of foam is that it really cuts down on air infiltration, which is a huge source of heat loss, especially in older homes. Cellulose will also settle over time, creating a gap at the top of the wall.</p>
<p>Regarding windows, you need to balance cost, R-value, and your home&#8217;s character. If your windows have real character (old wavy glass, beautiful double-hung frame detailing etc), you might find that a combination of reducing air infiltration in walls &#038; ceilings, combined perhaps with custom-made storm windows, might give you the improvements you need without compromising the character of the house.</p>
<p>If the windows truly need to be replaced, I still urge you to consider the character of the house. Despite a slight performance weakness, double-hung windows might still be good. While fiberglass is probably the best frame option, wood or aluminum-clad wood might fit the house better.</p>
<p>Beyond all that, the better the R-value of the window the better. Triple-glaze is great, but it also makes for a heavier window. The third pane of glass adds virtually no insulating value by itself; the benefit comes from creating an additional air pocket. So you might also want to consider a double-paned window that has a thin polyester film suspended in the middle. Much lighter and essentially the same R-value. Also consider argon or krypton gas filling, as well as low-e coating.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Tim Miller</title>
		<link>http://houseblog.ottopohl.com/2010/03/10/diminishing-insulation-returns/comment-page-1/#comment-1286</link>
		<dc:creator>Tim Miller</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Jan 2011 21:59:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://houseblog.ottopohl.com/?p=347#comment-1286</guid>
		<description>Howdy, nice home photos.  I&#039;m restoring a 108 year old grand home and still planning the super insulation of the walls. Been intrigued about staggered double stud walls - 10&quot; filled with cellulose. In reading about your use of foam, a question came to mind. What type of sub siding did you use?  And why? 
did you use  double or tripple glazed windows?
Sincerely
Tim Miller</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Howdy, nice home photos.  I&#8217;m restoring a 108 year old grand home and still planning the super insulation of the walls. Been intrigued about staggered double stud walls &#8211; 10&#8243; filled with cellulose. In reading about your use of foam, a question came to mind. What type of sub siding did you use?  And why?<br />
did you use  double or tripple glazed windows?<br />
Sincerely<br />
Tim Miller</p>
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